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POOP PROPAGANDA BE DAMNED: GUIDE TO MEXICO CITY’S BOOMING PULQUE SCENE
Following the sounds of Mexican folk music and laughter spilling onto the street, I push through the wooden saloon doors of La Catedral del Pulque, better known as El Salon Casino, curious as to what lie beyond.
Pierced and tattooed twenty-somethings were crowded around tables drinking huge steins of thick, brightly colored liquid. Two viejos in the corner were playing cards while sipping something that looked like 2 percent milk. At another table, a group of Sex in the City-type women were busy snap chatting or tweeting (probably to each other) as they shared a pitcher of green juice. Was this some kind of new juice-meets-milk health fad?
Nope. There’s nothing new about this trend—although it does have healthy attributes.
Come to find out, pulque (said POOL-kay) is the buzzy beverage of the moment in Mexico City. Made from agave juice—the same ingredient that tequila and mezcal are distilled from—pulque dates back to pre-Hispanic times, when the Aztecs ruled the roost.
According to Aztec legend, the drink was discovered when the gods struck an agave plant with lightening in outrage over the breakup of Mayahuel and Quetzalcóatl - two star-crossed lovers whose relationship ended in Romeo-and-Juliet fashion. (Born of such a passionate pair, it’s no wonder they considered it an aphrodisiac.)
Thanks to that mythical bolt of electricity revealing the plant’s nectar, the Aztecs quickly figured out that if they let the juice sit around for a day or two, a milky-white, sour-tasting alcoholic beverage resulted. Historically, only the elite ruling class of Aztecs consumed it for ceremonial, copulation and celebratory purposes. Over time—especially in the late 19th and early 20thcentury— it became mainstream with workingmen; pulquerias (bars that serve only pulque) propagated throughout the city. Like the Mexican version of Cheers, they were places for men—women weren’t allowed—to relax and swap stories after a hard day’s labor.
In its heyday, there were roughly 1,100 pulquerias in Mexico City alone. That is, until shit hit the fan. Literally. When the 21stcentury rolled around, the number had shrunk to an anemic dozen or so.
So, why did the drink of the gods fall out of fashion?
“In the 50s, beer companies started a rumor that pulque was made with cow caca,” said Anilu Lopez Beltran, my Mexico City tour guide.
Beer brands, such as Dos Equis and Corona, thirsted after the country’s vast market share of fermented agave fans. Blessed by the Mexican government, they launched a stinky smear campaign—pooh-poohing pulque as low-class—until the 90s. Sure enough, those repulsed, empty-handed imbibers had to drink something and switched to cerveza and tequila.
However, poop propaganda notwithstanding, pulque is fighting its way back. Due to the chido (’cool’ in Mexican spanish)kids’ interest, dozens of new bars dedicated to the age-old elixir and old-timer joints, such as Las Duelistas that opened in 1930, are jammed packed. Arturo Gallardo, Las Duelistas’ owner, says business has never been better, selling upwards of 900 liters on the weekend.
“We come here almost everyday after school to hang out with friends. On weekends, it’s our first stop before we hit the clubs,” says a Rockabilly-outfitted college student holding a terracotta jug of thick red pulque.
Due to its low alcohol content (3-5%) and tasty flavors—like tamarind, pistachio, coffee and mango—it’s easy to gulp down a lot. Although not impossible to wind up with a hangover, feeling bloated—rather than buzzed—is more probable. Plus, it’s like a Jamba Juice boost, full of protein, probiotics and amino acids.
Beyond the student-friendly prices ($1.65 per pint), the Instagram-generation’s intrigue is rooted in something far deeper.
“Young people want to connect with the old ways and their heritage. Pulquerias are a part of that movement,” says Margarita Carrillo Arronte, one of Mexico’s most revered chefs.
Unlike film photography, LP records and vintage Levis—relics of the past that have made a comeback worldwide with millennials—this phenomenon is purely Mexicana. Since spoilage occurs within days (a telltale sign it’s gone bad is it starts to look like semen), it might be one of the world’s only globalization-free products.
As the only country on the planet to experience this, here’s where to get your boozy nectar of the gods on when in Mexico City:
Las Duelistas – Painted floor-to-ceiling with colorful, pre-Hispanic murals, it’s one of the city’s most popular pulque bars. Check out their exotic flavors, like mint, red wine, and Oreo cookie.
Aranda 28, Centro Histórico
La Purisima – Although not a traditional pulqueria by definition (they sell beer and liquor as well), it’s Mexico City’s first gay nightclub to serve pulque.
República de Cuba 17, Centro
La Titina – Owned by Celia Muñoz, an elderly woman who holds her own when it comes to drinking, the 70-year-old pulqueria was the first to welcome women several decades ago.
Misterios Avenue, Eje 3 Norte sn, Industrial, Gustavo A. Madero
Wichitos – Located in the posh La Condesa neighborhood, Wichitos caters to well-heeled Mexicans and tourists. Check out their spice-rimmed pulque shots that come in a rainbow of colors.
Tamaulipas 104, Condesa D.F.
La Gloria - Avatar, a blue-colored pulque made from a secret recipe, is the specialty at this 109-year-old cantina.
Morelos 34, Barrio San Pablo, Iztapalapa
Morelos 34, Barrio San Pablo, Iztapalapa
Pulque 101: 5 Things to Know Before You Go
1. Pulque comes in three sizes: a glass, mug or pitcher.
2. Natural pulque (or unflavored) is sour and pungent tasting—like plain yogurt.
3. Pulquerias usually feature 5-10 curados (flavored pulque) that change daily. Curados are slightly more expensive than plain pulque.
4. The most popular flavors include apio (celery), piña (peanut), nuez (Walnut), jitomate (tomato), guayaba (guava), andavena (oatmeal topped with cinnamon).
5. Most pulquerias sell light snacks as well, such as soup or tacos.
Photos by Lanee Lee.
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